Our bi-communal radio program

We got it!

Everyone knows I've bee preoccupied with our immigration proceedings for the last few weeks and so the postings have been less frequent. However, there is good news today. Maryna was approved for her visa to come to the United States. Thank you all for your support and good wishes.

Rice meeting aimed to end isolation

This is a very important development in the ongoing drama known as "the Cyprus problem." The North of Cyprus (TRNC) is not recognized by any country in the world except for Turkey. Therefore, any high level meetings with leaders in other countries is a major step forward in ending this stalemate.


STEPS for lifting the economic isolation of the Turkish Cypriots were the main focus of a meeting between Turkish Cypriot leader Mehmet Ali Talat and US Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice in Washington late on Friday.
In Nicosia yesterday the half-hour meeting was condemned by the political leadership, which said it did not contribute towards a settlement. President Tassos Papadopoulos described the meting as “divisive”.
Reports from Washington said the meeting was part of a US effort to ease the isolation of the Turkish Cypriot community after it supported the failed Annan settlement plan last year.

US officials said because the US does not recognise the “TRNC’ Rice had met Talat is his capacity as Turkish Cypriot leader, and not as the ‘President’ of the Turkish Cypriots.

The fact that it was the one of the rare occasions a US Secretary of State held a formal meeting with a Turkish Cypriot leader is seen as a highly symbolic sign of support for the Turkish Cypriot community. Rice also posed for pictures with Talat before the meeting but made no statements.
Speaking after the meeting Talat, who is due to meet UN Secretary-general Kofi Annan in New York tomorrow, described the meeting with Rice as “very useful”. “'It has been a very good meeting, we have explained all of our views,” he said.

“'We explained that our number-one target is solution of the Cyprus problem, unification of Cyprus. We asked for the end of the isolation basically because we want the solution of the Cyprus problem. We requested the US to continue its initiatives to this end,” Talat added. “We asked from the United States to continue their path, their line of supporting the lifting of the isolation of Turkish Cypriots, and further encourage the other countries, the other international organisations, to take similar steps.”
State Department Spokesman Sean McCormack said the Rice-Talat meeting underlined US support for the pro-settlement faction in Cyprus. He said the US wished to help reunification efforts by reducing the economic disparities between the two sides. “It indicates our continuing support for a solution and resolution to this issue,” he said.
Speaking on his return from Thursday's European Union informal summit, Papadopoulos strongly criticised the meeting, instigated by the US.
“The US move promotes divisive tendencies instead of bringing about reunification. Furthermore, it creates hope that the occupation regime could possibly be upgraded to a separate legal entity. Such moves do not help either the effort for a solution or the island’s reunification, on the contrary they consolidate divisive objectives of the occupation regime,” Papadopoulos said.
Commenting on Talat’s upcoming meeting with Annan tomorrow, Papadopoulos said the Secretary-general will be the one to decide when and how negotiations should be resumed.
“All indications are that the Secretary General has had some thoughts about certain steps, I stress, steps but this does not mean talks,” said the President. “Whether he continues to think along this line, I am not in a position to know.” Papadopoulos said it was likely Annan would send envoys before the end of the year.
Talat’s letter
Turkish Cypriot leader Mehmet Ali Talat’s letter to UN Secretary-general Kofi Annan on October 12 accused the Greek Cypriot side of being “racist, chauvinist and ultra-nationalistic” in its attitude towards Turkish Cypriots.

According to the Anatolia News Agency in his letter, Talat said that nationalism was being promoted on the Greek Cypriot side through such events as ‘Year for the remembrance and honouring of EOKA liberation struggle’ and other actions.

“We call on the international community, and in particular the EU, to urge the Greek Cypriot administration to take necessary steps for the immediate cessation of all forms of discriminatory acts against Turkish Cypriots,” it said.

Talat said that lately T-shirts with the slogan ‘A good Turk is a dead Turk', which he claims were being worn by Greek Cypriot soldiers during the 1990s had reappeared in National Guard camps.
He also said there was an established practice of maltreatment of Turkish Cypriots at the Nicosia Central Prisons. This was confirmed in a Council of Europe report in February 2004, he said.

“Nevertheless, Turkish Cypriots are determined to continue to tread the path of unification in the island. It is obvious that the good will of one side is not enough for achieving progress towards that end.”

Papadopoulos said he knew of only one specific case before the courts that related to allegations of maltreatment of a Turkish Cypriot. “Reports of ill treatment of Greek Cypriots are far more,” he said.

Copyright © Cyprus Mail 2005

European actions against trafficking in human beings

The Mediterranean Institute of Gender Studies organized a brainstorming meeting titled "Working towards the Elimination of Trafficking in Human Beings".
MIGS facilitated the session in order to launch relevant new initiatives, programmes and activities in both parts of Cyprus and explore the possibility of creating links on an EU level. This meeting aimed to contribute toward efforts to strengthen local, national, and European actions against trafficking in human beings, especially as related to the sexual exploitation of women.

Presentation Advocating for Victims of Human Trafficking

Pictures from my first public speech advocating for victims of human trafficking at a European Union sponsored conference. I know, the pictures are pretty bad, but the professional photographer was only contracted to stay until noon and my speech was at 13:30. Whadda ya gonna do?

Accessibility for All to Services and Terminals for Next Generation Networks

This weekend there is an European Union COST219ter conference in Ayia Napa, Cyprus. I will be presenting my ideas to provide human trafficking victims with new peaceful applications of technology to empower them with access to instant and authentic information.

Specific Ideas for Projects in Cyprus
Access to information (educational awareness) – One of the most powerful weapons in any struggle is access to relevant and accurate information. By providing immigrants with access to information regarding about already legally provided rights, they are empowered to ascertain for themselves their current state and make choices based upon their own needs and situation. There are a multitude of areas in which immigrants are denied basic, legal information and are thereby manipulated, coerced, controlled and abused by employers, corrupt officials, and criminal elements. We seek to empower immigrants by simply providing information about the following topics in their native language:

Cyprus and EU legal rights
Immigrant workers rights
Health care information
Government, emergency services and police information
Legal representation information
Non-governmental human rights organization information
Mandatory private (conducted away from employer or sponsor) educational awareness class before receipt of actual alien card in which all aforementioned information will be made available in immigrant’s native language
Screening for signs of being a victim of human trafficking - labor exploitation, sexual exploitation, inadequate housing, no freedom of movement (e.g. “handlers”) owing of “debt” (travel, transportation, visa application fees, housing, etc.,), coercion, physical and/or psychological abuse, threats of violence or retribution for disclosure of current situation

Interviews with victims of human trafficking have revealed other areas in which information is manipulated by employers and criminal elements. These areas need to be addressed BEFORE arrival of immigrant is set in motion. This could drastically reduce the number of trafficked persons.

1 – Native language employment contracts - Enactment of a measure requiring all Cypriot employers to provide future immigrant employees with accurate and truthful information in regards to their actual job duties or “contract” in the employee’s native language before their arrival to Cyprus. The document must be signed by both the employee and employer to be valid. This “contract” could then be certified by government officials and submitted into the immigrant’s files to provide a legal safeguard against potential abuse once the person immigrated to Cyprus.

2 – Employment placement for victims of human trafficking – Upon determination of an immigrant’s status as a victim of human trafficking, the immigrant is provided with social safeguards to empower the visa holder to transfer from their current fraudulent employment position into a bona fide and legal occupation. The establishment of an organization whose primary responsibility and service is to act as an “employment placement” center, bringing together willing and capable immigrant employees with trusted Cypriot businesses in need of qualified labor to perform legal work for adequate pay. There can be time constraints applied to this process. A suggested 30-day period of job searching and interviewing is suggested. This limited assistance provides the immigrant and suitable employers with a common link to expedite employment-hiring practices. This process also allows for the immigrant a time period in which they do not feel economic or deportation pressures that force them into the similar cycles of fraudulent and potentially abusive employment.


Peaceful Technology Applications – mobile learning and ambient intelligence based information in native languages


Experimenting with new technologies designed to promote peace and social justice where the user is at the center of interest. In accordance with European values of human rights, by keeping the user (IST Advisory Group, 2003) in this arena of interest, technology is utilized as citizen-centered and holistic. By building upon research and development from the emerging advances in Ambient Intelligence and Mobile Learning. The basic idea as put forth by the Nello Carrara Institute of Applied Physics to people with disabilities, but here changed to reflect people at a distinct disadvantage is to, “surround (immigrants, ed) with intelligent and interconnected objects by which they can control their environment and communicate and access information in their native language easily. The development of this intelligent environment requires the deployment of new technologies and their integration in order to produce important changes in the ways society is organized and important activities are carried out.” Emiliani, “Ambient Intelligence and disability: the technological perspective,” p.1. Our idea is to put computer generated relevant human rights information into the hands (literally) of immigrants. This information will be accessed through mobile phone based communication due to its almost ubiquitous nature and relatively inexpensive availability. The user will be able to either browse through the databases using WAP or Internet or even send sms or text based messages to a central number. The messages will be in the form of most frequently asked questions about immigrant issues directly related to the topics above. A computer-generated response will be given in the user’s native language and a reply sent automatically. The responses will be accurate and lead the user to truthful and timely information. The channel used to deliver the response (i.e., text, voice or video) will depend on the user’s device.

Seminar on Trafficking in Human Beings

Program for the Seminar on Trafficking in Human Beings with a screening of Lilya 4-ever at the University of Cyprus, Main Hall, 09:00 to 17:00, 6 th October 2005

09.00 Opening

Professor Stavros Zenios, Rector of the University of Cyprus

Mr. Ingemar Lindahl, Ambassador of Sweden

09.05 Introduction to the Seminar

Ms. Lise Berg, State Secretary, Ministry of Justice, Sweden

09.30 The Issue of Trafficking

Assistant Professor Maria Hajipavlou, University of Cyprus

10.00 Trafficking in Human Beings. The Approach of the Prosecutor

Ms. Ingela Klinteberg, Chief prosecutor

11.00 Coffee Break

11.20 Introduction of the film Lilya 4-ever

Ms. Cecilia Reimers, Project Manager, The Swedish Institute

11.25 Screening of Lilya 4-ever

A Swedish film on trafficking by Lukas Moodysson

13.00 Lunch

14.00 Trafficking and prostitution in Sweden. The Approach of the Police

Chief Inspector Thomas Ekman

14.45 Combating Trafficking in Cyprus. The Efforts of the Police

Ms. Kyriaki Lambrianidou, Inspector Criminologist, The Cyprus Police

15:15 The Current Situation in Cyprus

Ms. Stella Komninou, The Office of the Ombudsman

16.00 Discussion.

Moderator Professor Andros Kapardis, University of Cyprus

17.00 Concluding Remarks

Dr. Lazaros S. Savvides, Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Interior

Earth from Above

A remarkable international photography exhibit is currently on display in Nicosia, Cyprus. It is environmental in scope and breathtaking in reality. Please visit http://www.yannarthusbertrand.com/ and go to the Earth from Above photographs to see for yourself.

CIVICUS Cyprus Civil Society Index Findings

The implementation of the Civil Society Index study, which was conducted by the Management Centre in northern Cyprus and by Intercollege in southern Cyprus, has been completed. The project was developed by CIVICUS (World Alliance for Citizen Participation www.civicus.org ) an international NGO headquartered is in South Africa. The findings of this project were presented, extensively evaluated and discussed during a workshop on Saturday September 24, 2005. The event was held at Ledra Palace Hotel and the Fulbright Center in the UN-controlled buffer zone in Nicosia and brought civil society representatives and individuals from the wider public together in mono-communal and bi-communal sessions.

During the implementation stage of the project, which covered an 8 month period between February-September 2005, a map and a profile of all Cypriot civil society emerged. The project analyzed the structure, environment, values and impact dimensions of Cypriot civil society and it was revealed that the Turkish Cypriot civil society is in relatively good condition regarding its commitment to contemporary values, but has some weaknesses in terms of structure and making an impact on the decision makers. The Greek Cypriot side was found to be in worse shape with mostly non-tolerance of "others" i.e. anyone not Greek, and non participation in bi-communal activities needing the most improvement.

Cyprus Human Trafficking Rating

CYPRUS (TIER 2)

Cyprus is a destination country for women trafficked from Eastern and Central Europe for the purpose of sexual exploitation. Traffickers who forced women into prostitution continued to fraudulently recruit victims for work as dancers in cabarets and nightclubs on short-term "artiste" visas, for work in pubs and bars on employment visas, or for illegal work on tourist or student visas. There was increasing evidence of Chinese women being trafficked for sexual exploitation in Cyprus.

The Government of Cyprus does not fully comply with the minimum standards for the elimination of trafficking; however, it is making significant efforts to do so. Cyprus made some progress in its anti-trafficking efforts over the past year. The new police anti-trafficking unit produced successful results and showed vigilance in combating the problem. Government recognition of the problem improved, and there was a perceptible shift in awareness among officials, the press, and the public. Nevertheless, the government did little to generate public awareness about the role customers play in contributing to trafficking in Cyprus. The Government of Cyprus should immediately formalize its recently completed National Action Plan and proactively enforce its implementation. Moreover, the government should work to improve cooperation with civil society on victim protection and assistance.

Prosecution

In 2004, the Government of Cyprus significantly increased its anti-trafficking enforcement efforts, particularly in the area of investigations and arrests. Under its newly created Office of Combating Trafficking in Human Beings, police made 194 arrests in 91 trafficking-related cases. Additionally, police charged 20 persons with trafficking in persons and sexual exploitation. There were no trafficking-related convictions reported during the reporting period. Police conducted regular visits to cabarets and interviewed women in private, away from their places of work. In 2004, the government closed ten cabarets for operating without a license. The Government of Cyprus signed a number of anti-trafficking cooperation agreements with source countries during the reporting period.

Protection

The Government of Cyprus’ efforts in the area of protection improved in 2004. The Welfare Department of the Ministry of Labor routinely ensured that victims received temporary shelter, received legal and financial assistance, and issued residence and employment permits in cases where victims cooperated in an investigation. The police identified 66 victims willing to testify against their traffickers, 47 of whom requested police protection. In 2004, the government set aside several rooms for trafficking victims in government-subsidized housing and solicited bids for the operation and construction of a permanent shelter. Notably, the government has stopped issuance of new cabaret licenses and now prohibits hiring replacements for women on artiste visas who are identified as victims and removed from cabarets. Although the government established a screening and referral process, it has yet to fully standardize it by completing its proposed handbook for handling victims.

Prevention

In March 2005, the Ministry of Interior held a major press conference to publicize the release and routine distribution of a revised information pamphlet for all newly arriving female foreign workers. This pamphlet contains anti-trafficking information in an effort to prevent the exploitation of artistes. Although the anti-trafficking unit held a number of press conferences and appeared in popular media to promote its anti-trafficking activities, the government did not conduct any large-scale demand-oriented awareness campaigns. Police reported receiving an estimated 20 trafficking-related calls per week via their crime prevention hotline.

AREA ADMINISTERED BY TURKISH CYPRIOTS

The Republic of Cyprus exercises control over the southern two-thirds of the island. The northern part of Cyprus is governed by a Turkish Cypriot administration that has declared itself the "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" (TRNC); it is not recognized by the United States or any other country, except Turkey. The area administered by Turkish Cypriots is a destination for women trafficked from Eastern and Central Europe for the purpose of sexual exploitation. There are indications that it is also used as a transit point for persons trafficked into forced labor into the EU. In 2004, Turkish Cypriot authorities demonstrated an increased recognition of the trafficking problem. Police reportedly investigated all complaints made by victims, and they continued their policy of holding the passports and airplane tickets of nightclub employees to prevent exploitation by employers. In 2004, 22 individuals were arrested on the grounds of living off the proceeds of prostitution, and of those, 18 cases are pending trial, while 4 were convicted. In February 2005, a social worker began interviewing newly arrived nightclub employees to verify whether their employment is voluntary or not. The police and other officials conducted regular inspections of nightclubs and bars. In 2004, 1,033 visas were issued to women working in bars and nightclubs. Notably, in 2004 the police reportedly repatriated 191 women who wished to terminate their nightclub contracts — a possible sign of trafficking. Turkish Cypriot authorities should take immediate action to strengthen prosecution efforts and stiffen penalties for perpetrators.

Human Trafficking

Some of you are aware of my efforts to eradicate the scourge of human trafficking. Cyprus is a major destination in this worldwide criminal enterprise and many people here (mainly women and children) are victims of this heinous crime against humanity. For those of you who are not aware of the extent of this problem, slavery is alive and well in this world. I have posted a link to the US State Department’s annual report on this subject. Currently, my passion is to create a non-governmental organization that will help the Cypriot government educate new immigrants to Cyprus of their rights as visitors to an European Union country, assess whether people issued a visa to work here are fully aware of the “work” they will be doing, scrutinize incoming peoples for signs of abuse and coercion, provide information about how they can refuse their employment, and issue each person with a list of contact persons who speak their native language (a major deterrent in reporting human traffickers) and can assist them with adjusting in a foreign country.

Please go to the web site link http://www.state.gov/g/tip/rls/tiprpt/2005/
and download the report. It’s a pretty hefty read, but you’ll be glad you did. If something more contemporary is your style, then pick up Issue 982 Sept. 8, 2005, Rolling Stone or go to Rollingstone.com and view "In The Land of Slavery" by Josha Gray Davidson.

Sri Lankan Sundays

Ah, Sunday, an almost universal (or should we really use the term global or perhaps even better, Western) day of rest. Wake up later than usual. Enjoy a leisurely cup of coffee, not the mad dash to the local coffee shop or drive-thru kind, gulping on the way to some appointment or work. Grab the Times (or the Cyprus Sunday Mail). Settle back into bed. Do the crossword. Check out the book section. Maybe listen to some Chet Baker.

Now, imagine if you will, Sundays on a Mediterranean island. That’s it. The morning sun slowly illuminating the wooden floor and ancient stonewalls of a 17th century structure. The cool breeze dances with the linen curtains. You absorb the street sounds. Your olfactory senses catch whiffs of street vendors roasting almonds mixed with the sounds of hurried families on their way to an Orthodox Church service. Stepping out on the veranda you slowly take in the first refreshing traces of autumn. In the distance, two dark skinned women slowly appear sauntering down the street, carrying grocery bags and giggling under an umbrella. The sight is uncommon.

Slip into your capris and think about hitting the beach. On your way, you notice dozens of families in the municipal park gathered under trees laughing and enjoying more than just the shade or lunch or being together. It seems they are enjoying freedom. They aren’t Greek or Turkish. They’re too dark. Sri Lankan? Filipino? Where were they during the normal week?

Well, in Cyprus, they’re on the rooftops. That’s right, the rooftops. Some Cypriots keep them in their homes as domestic help. And when I say keep, I mean, keep. They are not allowed outside unless it’s Sunday. So, all other days their only escape is the rooftops. From the street level, one does not notice. But, one day I looked up. I saw the figures on the rooftops. I wondered. I heard a bell sound from inside house and the figure disappeared (This is the signal for servants to come back into the house and perform their duties). That’s because in Cyprus, most of these people are products, nay victims, of human trafficking. Not all mind you. It’s always tough to generalize. Many of Sri Lankan origin are subjugated to existing as sub-citizens or, more aptly, indentured servants. Lured her because conditions back in their native lands are horrendous. Promised a better life. Maybe they have it here. This Sunday, I go to the park and sit with the families and ask. Do you see these invisible people in your country?

Project Update

The bi-communal radio project is coming to fruition. We have a launch date set for October (Rocktober to my PDX friends) 4th. With that there are last minute appeals being made globally. Here's a snippet from a recent press release:

Greeks and Turks Support Better Communications on Cyprus

HasNa Inc. and the Hellenic American Women’s Council are hosting a fundraiser on Thursday, September 22nd from 5-7:30 pm at The Army and Navy Club. The event is funded by Raymond James Associates. This event is to announce an exciting new project about to begin in Cyprus called: “Talk of the Island,” a live radio program, during which ordinary people from both southern and northern Cyprus can call in on toll-free numbers and openly share their opinions.

HERE'S A REPRINT OF A NEWSPAPER ARTICLE

Article on HasNa's Cyprus Project Appears in Turkish Newspaper

Yalçın DOĞAN- ENGLISH VERSION
Talk of the Island
Nicosia (Lefkosa)


What is the most interesting topic of the day? What issues are the islanders talking about on that day? What interests the islanders the most that day?

The Islanders are the Turks and Greeks who live in the north and south of Cyprus.

The issues that the Cypriots most want to share and talk about will be heard in a program called “Talk of the Island,” to be jointly broadcast by Turkish and Greek Cypriot stations.

This endeavor is the primary goal of an American civil society non-governmental organization (NGO), and all this is under the direction of an organization that is not-for-profit.

HasNa’s goal:

The goal of the American civil society NGO, HasNa, is to find solutions to disputes that surface in different parts of the world. It brings together disputing parties so that they may discuss relevant issues. At the same time it provides training in conflict resolution and after the training, it encourages them to work together in the same place. It brings them together through television and radio programs.

This getting together enables them to relax, making them think and then to start looking for alternative solutions to the problems at hand.

The president of HasNa is Nevzer Gulistan Stacey, a Turkish woman who has been living in the US for a long time.

HasNa has a partnership with two radio stations in Cyprus; Radyo Mayıs on the Turkish side and Radyo Larnaka on the Greek side.

These two radio stations will have a joint broadcast three times a week. This program, which will be broadcasted to all of Cyprus, namely the “Island”, will discuss topics that concern all of the islanders. Therefore, the show is called “Talk of the Island”.

An expert on the topic being discussed that day will also take part in the show and anyone from the community will be free to join in. There will be a Turkish producer in the north and a Greek producer in the south. The show will be an hour long.

NPR EDUCATION

The National Public Radio (NPR), which broadcasts in the U.S., is responsible for the technical side of the show. NPR will be coming to Cyprus in a few weeks to educate the two sides about broadcasting. This radio station conducts a radio program called “Talk of the Nation” in the U.S., in which they discuss the topic that the public is most interested in at that moment.

The same logic has now been applied to Cyprus. This is where the importance and reliability of a civil society organization comes in. The two Cypriot NGOs, one from the north and one from the south, cooperating with HasNa live within the society, with its problems, conflicts and sometimes its pleasant events. Because they live within the society, they are the best source to search for a solution without getting lost in the labyrinth of national and international politics. Without falling prey to balance games. Without getting involved in different calculations. They do not see a reason for any of this.

It is encouraging to see an American NGO headed by a Turkish woman undertaking to find a solution in Cyprus.

I have been in Cyprus for two days now, and I have not met a single person who does not want to find a solution. “Talk of the Island” can bring the two societies closer together.

I'LL WRITE ABOUT THE GRANTS TOMORROW!!!

PRIO in Cyprus

It was a great pleasure to attend the cocktail reception for the opening of the new PRIO Cyprus Centre last night. The International Peace Research Institute, Oslo (PRIO) has been active in Cyprus with its Eastern Mediterranean Project since 1997. Initially they focused on organising and facilitating dialogue and more recently, a major public information project on the Annan Plan. Based on consultations with their wide network following the results of the referendum, PRIO decided to expand their activities by taking on new projects, organizing an annual conference and continuing their dialogue efforts. All of their projects are bi-communal in composition and in orientation. The opening of the PRIO Cyprus Centre combines two issues, the inauguration of new offices and the presentation of three major research and information projects on property, history education and the "settlers."

Many people from around the globe attended including the PRIO Director Stein Tønnesson and the Norwegian State Secretary Vidar Helgesen.

I was invited by Gina Lende, Centre Manager for the PRIO Cyprus Centre, who gave a warm introduction to those in attendance and is an incredible asset to PRIO and peace efforts in Cyprus.

Please look to PRIO's website for more information about their valuable role in facilitating peace in our world.

Scenes from Jordan

Pic #1 - I'm overlooking the village that leds to the entrance to Petra.

Pic #2 - Me wearing traditional garb at the top of the altar of sacrifice.





Pic #3 - A beautiful Mosque as seen from the hotel's entrance









Pic #4 - A sign pointing the way to peace. If only it was this easy, huh?








Pic #5 - The Garden Tomb inside Petra. Although everything is truly stunning, I found this particularly amazing.





Pic #6 - Camels










Pic #7 - A sign post directing one to the Iraqi border. I really love tacos.

The heart speaks volumes

More photos from Beirut

Pic #1 - Notice the close proximity of churches and mosques. People can live close in peace and harmony.....

Pic #2 - Bombed out building left standing in downtown to remind those of the horrors of war

Pic #3 - Bombed out building being redeveloped into the world's largest nightclub. Now that's a good idea

Pictures from the Middle East

Here are some shots from my trip to the Beirut.

Pic #1 - Memorial to slain prime minister


Pic #2 - Beautiful Mosque just completed and ready for use





Pic #3 - Memorial to those who perished during the bombings

Birthday in Beirut

Here are some pics from B-day in Beirut. One is of the entrance to the American University in Beirut. The grounds are beauitful with tree lined green spaces, inspired architecture and the ocean as a distant backdrop. The second snapshot is graffiti I found on a wall in downtown. I think it's cool.

Beirut is a bustling city of millions of people situated on the Mediterranean and is far from the desert one might imagine. The Saudis have pumped billions into the reconstruction of the city and so many of the buildings are new and opulent, but constructed in a classical style. The contrast is stunning. The people are the best part. They are welcoming, loving and well-educated. They speak of their love and admiration for the USA, but are disappointed that they are not allowed to travel there because of a misconception of their religious ideals. They are Muslim, but are adamantly opposed to any connection to extremists. It's somewhat analogous to peaceful Christians in the US distancing themselves from the hatred and non-tolerance eschewed by some right wing zealots (southern baptists anyone?). This is not to say that there are not severe communication and cultural issues to be addressed. I am not that naive. What I am suggesting is that having an open mind and heart while attempting to understand the complexity of the situation is in the best interest of peace in our lives and the safety of the next several generations, i.e. our children's future. Overall, I am come to realize that most people on this Earth want similiar things; a peaceful life, a healthy family, a good job and food (and sex, too).

The parts of Jordan I encountered are very much a desert land and even though in cities like Amman, where there are many, many signs of wealth, nomadic lifestyle traces are still perceptible. Make no mistake, Amman is a huge city of over 4 million people. It is a major hub in the Middle East and is vital to commerce. One does see camels (outside the city) and people dressed in traditional garb (almost everywhere), but when you are there, you understand the relevance of these things. Camels get you and your belongings through the desert very effectively and choosing to wear a sun-blocking material over your head as temperatures reach 120 degrees F is a pretty smart thing to do.

Being in Jordan and seeing the dead city of Petra, is one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had on many levels. First, it is one of the oldest sites of civilization in the world and the architecture is stunning. Carving, by hand, huge and fantastic structures that last thousands of years out of majestic mountains is no easy feat. It requires skill and immense organization of labor. Second, evidence of still existing roads, reservoirs, trade routes, and the like, prove that Arab contributions to science, technology and culture helped the region to thrive during a time period that European cultures experienced the "dark ages." Mere words can not do justice to the beauty. I suggest an internet or library search to help one understand the amazing technical feats accomplished by the ancient civilization of the Nebateans.

This is a good start, although many exist - http://www.raingod.com/angus/Gallery/Photos/MiddleEast/Jordan/Petra/

More Buffer Zone pics

Here are more Buffer Zone pics!

Scenes from the buffer zone

As I pass daily through the buffer zone to meet with my colluegaes in the North about the bi-communal radio station, I see these things. Photography in the zone is prohibited. These must have been recorded while making mobile calls. Click on the distant looking images to read the nationalist slogans!

Helios Jet Crash

The green, Astra rental car whines and strains under the heat of the Cyprus sun. I sweat profusely while I fiddle with the air conditioning knobs, wondering how much a shot of freon is in dollars converted from Cyprus pounds (A calculation I perform as much as any Travelex money exchange center agent). The mobile rings like a referee blowing his/her whistle. It breaks my struggle with the A/C. Carly's sweet voice pierces the steam with, "Papa, are you okay?" (Papa is an affectionate nickname given to me by cl friends). Ironically, an American woman flying from PDX to NYC is my first link to what would become one of the most moving cultural experiences in Cyprus to date (except for those Ayia Napa beach pics!!).

My mind raced, showing images of friends I had just dropped off at Larnaca airport (where 98% of all Cyprus flights arrive/depart). I frantically went over flight schedules in my head. Nah, their flight didn't go to Athens. Did it? Was this the last I would see of them all? The night of revelry before would arguably be a fine departing point for any farewell, but this can't be the last time; unimaginable. The mobile's buzz again breaks my thoughts. An SMS saying "arrival okay, miss you already" are the precious electronic words I stare at for two minutes.

By now, I'm sure many of you have heard about the Helios jet crash (By the way,thanks to those of you, in addition to Carly, who called to see if I was somehow on that flight). While I was not, as aforementioned, I did take friends to the airport that day and so, was distantly connected to the events. I became more directly involved as I moved through the community and experienced and examined first hand the close knit fabric of the Greek Cypriot society and by default the connection to the Greek Orthodox Church and the faith of the peoples here.

The plane crashed on Sunday, August 14 or the day before the Assumption of the Virgin (Apokimisis tis Panagias), which is celebrated August 15. Assumption Day falls within the traditional Greek vacation month when Greeks are normally on the move. So typically crowded ferries and buses become even more packed near the holiday as people travel to be near their families.

Some background on that day helped me understand the intensity of what was taking place. On November 1, 1950 Pope Pius XII announced that the Roman Catholic Church was adopting as dogma the Assumption of Mary. His address, "Munificentissimus Deus", was delivered before 50,000 faithful in St. Peter’s Square. The dogma states that Mary, the mother of Jesus, is more than just a saint of the Church or a hero of faith. The Assumption is a declaration of faith in the assumption of Mary, body and soul, into Heaven.

The Assumption became a feast day celebrated by the Church every year. What it brings to mind is the height to which the Church has elevated this special woman. This revelation did not just occur to Pope Pius XII in 1950. Rather, his announcement made formal what had been believed for centuries. The beliefs about Mary go beyond assumption and include doctrines about her Immaculate Conception; she was born free from sin, her perpetual virginity and her action as co-redeemer with Christ.

Whereas non-Catholic Christianity tends to view the Bible as God’s last revelation to mankind, the Roman Catholic Church sees itself as an instrument of God receiving new revelations from the Holy Spirit. So this new revelation about Mary was confirmed in 1950 without a visible ripple. The doctrine of the Assumption fits right in to orthodox Catholic thinking.

This tragedy is experienced as intense pain and disbelief. Most everyone can sympathize with the agony suffered by the victims of the crash, but in this culture, people agonize over the why's and if's. As I witness at Monday's vigil near at central Eleftheria Square in Nicosia. Hundreds of sobbing people lit candles and said prayers as others filled a pit of sand with candles in remembrance of those who died. It was a poignant and moving tribute to the dead.

People are genuinely sad here about the crash and it is reflected in the daily conversations on the street and in the cafes. Thoughts of the 48 children who perished summon tears the most.

Lunch with the Major

Those of you who recall my arrival snafu and subsequent delay in Athens, may remember mention of my cohort Jane. Her husband is a Major in the British military and is stationed in Cyprus as a Monitoring Observation and Liaison Officer with UNFICYP (United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus; the universal infatuation with acronyms never ceases to amaze). UNFICYP was set up in 1964 to prevent further fighting between the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities. After the hostilities of 1974, The Mission's responsibilities were expanded. UNFICYP remains on the island to supervise ceasefire lines maintain a buffer zone and undertake humanitarian activities.

Ian (the Major) is a great guy, as well as an intelligent, compassionate and fascinating person. He and I have shared several conversations regarding many facets of life including Cyprus, Iraq, growing up in a rural community, military life, economics, and history (side bar - I'll miss the bloke when he ships out next week). Be that as it may, he was kind enough to invite me to lunch at Ledra Palace (The Ledra Palace Hotel (LPH) was, in 1974, reputedly the best 5 star hotel on the island of Cyprus. It was home to many Hollywood stars and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton both stayed in what is now the Quartermasters room on many occasions. LPH is now primarily home to Regimental Headquarters. The Hotel is somewhat run down and the scars of the fighting that took place during the conflict in 1974 can still be seen particularly round the still functioning swimming pool where splash marks of 20mm rounds can be seen, the result of a Turkish air strike).

It was my first experience dining with military officers in their mess. Before lunch Ian gave me a tour of the grounds and showed me where the bi-communal activists and diplomats exchange their ideas. The guys did a great job of refurbishing the pool and putt-putt golf course and have a great lanai for cocktail parties. It's not all fun and games though. These guys are serious men on a mission to keep the peace. The aforementioned amenities help keep moral high. After lunch we had coffee and I discussed rapprochement with some other officers.

It was then time to get an inside peek at the buffer zone (see previous posts) from the belly of the beast. We started at the south-east gate and made our way through miles of abandon structures dilapidated from the weight of sandbags used to stop bullets. We climbed rooftops to get a bird's eye view of the divided city. The Turkish Cypriots were in preparations of the celebration of the TMT (TC counterpart to the GC EOKA). The 14th century mosque was draped in flags and the letters "TMT" spelled out in light bulbs connected the minarets. We explored where the Canadian contingent lived until they pulled out in 1993. This is the where the famous Toyota graveyard resides. A shipment of new Toyota Corollas was stored in a parking structure when the fighting broke out in 1974. These cars still have the new car plastic protecting the interior (although not the infamous new car smell) and less than 40 miles on the odometers. Apparently they are worth around $40,000 if they were ever to be sold on the market; the figure is probably more than that considering their historical value.

We then checked out where the governments proposed a new border crossing. It would reduce the entry time by at least half an hour and would connect the vital tourist markets in each city. Money talks and moves borders, baby. I was then escorted out of the buffer zone. I theoretically could be shot if not with authorized personnel. It was Wednesday after 1 p.m. so all the shops are closed for the day. I find some fresh squeezed OJ at a small food cart near the Pafos Gate and set in the shade wondering if this quagmire will ever make it out of status quo.

Burning the midnight oil

It's been a while (I know you just sang the words to that awful song in your head Chris) since I've had time to post. I have been immersed in the final stages of a project that was in development before my arrival and I was called upon to help complete the task. It is due at midnight tonight and the end of this stage is close at hand. It is an exciting proposal contributing to the closure of the literacy-, economic-, and digital divide of our world through a re-examination of our relationship to education. The Cyprus Neuroscience and Technology Institute (CNTI), the parent organization of Tech4Peace, has vast experience educating youth in technology and e-learning, but is ever forward looking and is proposing research and transformation into m-learning, or education through mobile devices. Because the information is proprietary, I cannot divulge its contents, but suffice it to say it is the beginning of an achievable educational revolution that strives to empower children to become knowledgeable, humanitarian, and peaceful global citizens. My short narrative does not do the project justice here, but I will be happy to explore the concept with anyone who wishes a conversation.

Reconciliation in Cypriot society

I am going to a conference tomorrow in the buffer zone and have included the intinerary. It looks to be very interesting. The basic idea of this conference is to initiate a dialogue between the two communities on the concept as well as the potential for Reconciliation in Cypriot society today, following the rejection of the UN plan and facing the prospect of a protracted non-solution situation.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM

Session I (9.30 -11.15)
The Concept and Context of Reconciliation: South Africa, the Globe and Lessons for Cyprus :
Speakers:Virginie Ladisch: Truth, Justice, and Reconciliation: The Guatemalan Experience

Nicos Trimikliniotis: Reconciliation and Social Action in Cyprus: Citizens Inertia and the Protracted State of Limbo

Erol Kaymak: Does Cyprus Need a Truth and Reconciliation Commission?

Ari Sitas: The Truth and Reconciliation experience of South Africa and lessons to be drawn.

Discussant: Floya Anthias

Chair: Vassos Argyrou

Session II (11.30 -13.00)
Reconciliation and Citizens: Content and Praxis
Speakers: Ahmet Hidiroglou: Multicultural identity and Reconciliation in Cyprus

John Milios: The Inherent Totalitarianism of the Concept of Nations: The Example of the Greek Nation and the Reconciliation Process of Cyprus Muharem Faiz: Nationalism, Identity and Citizenship for Reconciliation in Cyprus

Chair: Christophoros Christophorou

The Political Economy of Reconciliation (14.00 – 15.00)
Speakers: Ron Ayres: The economics of reunification and partition

Elias Ioakimoglou & Nicos Trimikliniotis: The "Cyprus economic miracle" - Reaching its limits considerations about development and sustainability in the light of a possible solution.

Hasan Kahvecioglou: The economic development of the north since the referendum - working towards reconciliation or partition?

Discussant: Alpay Durduran

Chair: Simeon Matsis

The Role of The Media in Reconciliation: From independence to date (15.-15.30)
Speakers: Christophoros Christophorou: G/C and T/C media since 1960: Dividing or Reconciling the people?

Discussant & Chair: Zihni Yusal

Truth For Reconciliation (15.45- 16.10)
Speaker: Sevgul Uludag: The voices of the missing

Discussant: Ari Sitas

Chair: Spyros Hadjinicolaou

Reconciliation: in search of a Third Space for action (16.10-18.00)
Speakers: Zihni Uysal: 40 years of failures and some thoughts on the way ahead

Erol Kaymak: Re-imagining a United Cyprus

Ari Sitas: Is Europe the Third space?

Floya Anthias: Reconciliation-Solidarity Beyond Ethnicity’

Discussant1: Takis Hadjidemetriou

Chair: Jus Payiatas

Pics from North Cyprus

Here are some pics from my trip with Yiannis Laouris M.D., PhD. and Dr. Charles Haynes from Massachusetts General Hospital to North Cyprus. Yiannis and his wife are refugees of the 1974 war from Kyrenia and Famagusta respectively. We embarked upon the journey for several reasons. First, Yiannis thinks it is important that GC's cross the Green Line as much as possible to show the world that all of Cyprus belongs to Cypriots. Second, Yiannis wanted us to understand what is like to be forcibly removed from your home by an occupying military force and your house and property given to others. Third, it is hot here and any excuse to swim in the Mediterranean is welcomed. Enjoy. Some pics are from a dyslexia conference that the doctors attended in Limassol and don't involve me and are therefore unimportant.

To view the rest of the pictures look on the right hand side of your screen and there should be a link. I have viewed this page via 3 different browsers (Explorer, Mozilla, and Safari - Mozilla being the best) and each shows the link differently. Sometimes it is a broken picture frame, sometimes a long white line, etc...The point being if you move your cursor around the side bar it will at one point change shapes indicating a link. Press down on your mouse when this happens and viola!

Rude awakening

As the sun chases away night's dark grasp and breathes life into the day, air raid sirens bellow and sweet slumber retreats into the crevices of my mind. Stunned by the sudden change in serenity, I know not what to make of the current distress. Is my current home in Southern Cyprus bracing against an attack by the 40,000 strong Turkish military? Has a terror attack reared its dreaded head against another EU member state? Dogs bark and car horns blare as loud speakers voice instructions in Greek; something about a Turkish landing force coming ashore. As I remember my humble abode is behind UN Headquarters, some of my fear subsides. People are divided into groups; men in tank tops, faded boxers and black knee-high socks are waving their hands, wildly gesturing and yelling as women in bath robes are crying about their sons and families. There is much commotion. Fire-cracker like sounds come from the distant horizon, as heavy trucks mobilize, and jet planes fly higher than the eyes can see, but not far enough for the ears not to recognize. It's the dogs incessant barking in this surreal scene that reaches into my consciousness and overwhelms me. Uncounted moments pass until I realize it is July 20. In the Greek Cypriot version of history this is the anniversary of the Turkish "invasion." In the Turkish Cypriot mind it is the anniversary of the "liberation" and a commemoration of the Turkish "landing." Whatever your perspective, it is 21 years to the day of the beginning of a war that wreaks havoc upon innocents and creates a physically and ethnically divided society. And the nationalists on both sides don't want anyone to forget it. No one here can.

Cypriot history lesson (c’mon, read on it’s fun, not like 8th grade government class) or “How we got here from there”

I realized that my blog was leaning heavily on my personal experiences. This is all well and good, but I want to enrich the total experience of the reader by providing some context. I will, therefore, contribute some background information as I know it to be. This first historical context will take us from the known beginnings of the island and leave us close to present day. I will expend much more energy and detail regarding the historical context of the current day conflict.

People have been here since 8000 B.C.
Cyprus is the 3rd largest island in the Mediterranean behind Sicily and Sardinia
Historical Periods of migration and influence – Neolithic, Neolithic II, Chalcolithic, Early Bronze Age, Middle Bronze Age, Late Bronze Age (arrival of the Mycenaean); Dorian peoples migrate; Aphrodite “born;” Geometric era 1050 B.C.; Archaic era (arrival of the Assyrians, 750 B.C.); Brief Egyptian rule in the 6th century; Persian rule 545 B.C.; Alexander the Great rules around 333 B.C.; Paul and Baranbas bring Christianity 45 A.D. (Lazarus is buried here; 2nd time’s a charm I guess); Byzantium era, 963 A.D. (Constantinople); Richard the Lionhearted (1191 A.D.) conquers Cyprus on his route to the 3rd Crusade; Dick sells Cyprus to the Knights Templar (go conspiracy buffs!); they get their butts kicked and Cyprus is sold back to Richard; he sells it again to Guy de Lusignan and Lusignan rule lasts for 2 centuries ending 1489; the Venetians take over and build their cool walls until the bad ass Ottoman’s arrive in 1570 and rule for 300 years; the British become involved because they are backing up the Ottoman’s militarily, guaranteeing the Russian’s don’t expand their territory, and arrive to administer the island (something they do very well by way, owing to a little thing called “divide and conquer,” (This is when TC’s and GC’s first begin to be separated by language and education), quite taxing on the people actually (pun intended); in exchange for British rule the Cypriots did get reforestation, and end to banditry, most extralegal extortion, an English legal system, water supplies, roads, and an end to most disease and locust problems; ironically, most of the taxes went to pay off bondholders of an Ottoman 1855 defaulted loan; Cyprus is annexed by Britain 1914 when the Ottomans join the Central Powers; Cyprus was offered to Greece in 1915 as a temptation to join the Allies in WWI, but King Constantine I said “talk to the hand;” The Turks renounce all claims in 1923 by signing the Treaty of Lausanne, Cyprus becomes a Crown Colony in 1925; 1931 sees the first Greek Cypriot rebellion against British rule.

Stay tuned for modern day strife…………………………….

Greek Cypriot Culture Lesson #1

Greek Cypriot Culture Lessons #1

Please do not mistake the following observed idiosyncrasies of Greek Cypriot Culture as anything but scenes of Cypriot life seen through affectionate eyes. I am in awe of the complexity of this culture. Anyone who has travelled here or knows me understands I mean no ill will (of course these are generalizations and we all know those are not absolute):

Left side of the road driving; look three times before crossing
Pedestrians come secondary to traffic continuation
Shops close everyday between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m.; no, really they shut down completely (on Thursday and Saturday, close is at 1 p.m.)
Smokers are not “bad” people and can indulge at will wherever and whenever
Invitations to a GC house is a blessing and one is culturally required to accept
Time is secondary to conversation and/or relationship
Time is secondary to most everything
Time is irrelevant
There is no time
Quality of life is measured by the number of days one makes it to the beach
Good Hospitality is innate
Evening meal starts between 9:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m.
There might be an official drinking age, but no one seems to know what it is
Because there is no drinking age, kids aren’t tempted by the forbidden and unknown and could care less about getting drunk
Police (Astynomia) drive with their lights on all the time

Forays into the North

My first crossing into the TRNC began at the behest of my co-worker Rebecca. A TC (Turkish Cypriot) friend of hers plays guitar in a band and has a gig every Tuesday at a club in North Nicosia (Lefkosa in Turkish). She was invited to the performance and asked if I’d like to check it out. We met at Ledra Palace (UN Headquarters) in the buffer zone at 10:00 p.m. (Cypriots get started late). Her friend, Emry, said he would give us a ride if we met him at the border promptly at 10:30 p.m. Apparently, this is important for more reasons than just being polite. Crossing into the TRNC is a unique experience. There are only two border crossings (that I know of) on the entire island. One starts from South Nicosia (Lekosia in Greek; starting to see the similarities?) by walking past a Greek police station. Armed guards are seated around a table chatting, playing cards, drinking coffee, etc. and usually are oblivious (this changes upon your return). As you approach the buffer zone you are bombarded by nationalistic symbolism and the war of half-truths begin (more on this in a later post). Bombed out remnants of once grandiose buildings are bullet ridden and vacant. The path is laden with time and weather worn, life-sized pictures of GC (Greek Cypriot) martyrs and adorned with barriers painted with stories of GC sacrifice and the senseless and ultimate murders of innocents at the hands of the TC or the Turkish army. Greek flags aflutter while the ever present colors of blue and white permeate the landscape and sky as a constant reminder of the desire for enosis or union with the motherland (Greece). 100 hundred paces more and one is into the UN controlled buffer zone with its own propaedeutic advisements (no photographs, etc.). Passing the once majestic hotel, Ledra Palace, which now houses the UN peace-keeping contingent, one looks up over the 12-foot high barbed wire fences to a facade of windows cast open to catch any hint of a breeze that (insert your deity of choice here) may bestow upon the sweltering landscape. Fluorescent lights cast their dreary grey glow upon olive drab camouflaged uniforms emblazoned with powder blue insignias dangling from curtain rods. On street-level is U.S. and UN propaganda heralding the lofty aspirations of diplomats and their Nicosia Revitalization Master Plan, a UNOPS (United Nations Office for Project Services) funded, bi-communal effort to co-manage the once collective city’s common historical landmarks (as well as a municipal waste-water plant and electric co-op; there are toilets and electricity to be managed after all). Scaled models give an international architect’s vision of a shared city’s utopian future complete with non-existent trees and non-aging children in imagined parks. After this short jaunt through neutral territory, Turkish propaganda vies for your attention. It’s hard to miss the red and white Turkish and TC flags (eerily similar, yet exactly opposite, complete with crescent and star) and Mustafa Attaturk’s leeringly watchful gaze (he does have beautiful eyes) upon you as a banner overhead proclaims: “TRNC forever!” Welcome to another world.

Emry is uncharacteristically late to pick us up because he had to retrieve a sound cord from a friend’s house and was entangled in a conversation with the matriarch. Cultural custom dictates that you leave when the conversation is exhausted, not when you feel you’d like to depart. We are shuttled through an endless maze of streets and statue-ornamented roundabouts until we happen upon a run-down structure with a large, ornate wooden door. The inside walls are completely covered with egg shell foam to enhance the sound or to lessen its effects on those upstairs or next door who would rather not hear the entertainment. The owner, Mustafa, is 20-years-old and loves Bon Jovi (who doesn't really). We listen to at least 2 Jovi c.d.'s before the band takes the stage. It is Emry on electric guitar and a lovely young woman in a purple dress and matching heels on vocals. The first tune is "Why not take all of me?" Nice show starter. Emry is an axe man and the woman can belt it out. They play nothing but the hits and the crowd loves it. So, do I. After a dozen or so renditions, I am getting tired. When the band starts playing Skynard’s “Give me three steps,” I take it as my cue to “head for the door.” I jump in a taxi and try my best attempt at butchering the Turkish language. All goes as planned because the driver had to stop a pedestrian to translate my vocal stylings. We laugh at me, which seems to be a new, popular local custom, and the driver offers me a harsh, Turkish cigarette to further bond. We laugh, we cry. He offers me his card in case I ever need a ride again. I will and he’ll be my man. Moments later I’m back at the Green Line. One more stop at the UN pub for a last beer and a laugh with the Polish, Russian and Ukrainian women who “work” for the soldiers and I’m ready for to head home. What should be a 5-minute walk turns into a 30-minute looking for my street fiasco. I finally find the door, open the veranda doors, plug in the mosquito “vepe” and sweat myself to sleep. Good times. Good times. Next…..My hunt for contact lens solution, drinking sangria at the base of an ancient mosque, and the realization that when Greek culture takes a siesta, they out do the Mexican culture by far.

My first day at work

Monday morning and I’m aflutter with excitement. I have walked to the office where I’ll be working twice already to make sure I can find it and to time the distance. Awake at 6:30 a.m. in anticipation of the day I have a Cypriot breakfast of coffee, yogurt, croissant and halloumi cheese (Halloumi is made by hand from a mix of sheep's and goat's milk. The milk is produced in the villages surrounding the Avdhimou area between Limassol and Paphos districts. The soft, springy, oval-shaped curd resembles a fresh mozzarella and has a mild yet tangy flavor. The best part is that it's so versatile. It can be grilled, grated, marinated, fried or eaten plain). I stopped to check my email in the lobby of the hotel I stayed at the first two nights. Wireless is a luxury here and something I have taken for granted in Portland with its ubiquitous Internet connections. It’s amazing how good a simple email can make one feel when one is alone in a foreign land. So, if you’re reading this, please stop right now and send me a hello. Cool, glad you’re back and thank you for that. One thing I had forgotten; Mediterranean life has its own time. I was ready to get Mccraken at 8 a.m. when 10 a.m. seems more appropriate. Please do not mistake this time reference for laziness or sloth; Cypriots are an industrious people. There is simply an alternative concept of time and its importance. Those of you who know me best will know that Mediterranean time is usually what I live on anyway, so being here is perfect. Once I went through my orientation, I received my responsibilities. They are four fold with time to be split equally among the tasks. Project one is the creation of a bi-communal Internet radio station that will eventually broadcast over traditional airwaves once government approval can be obtained (that is no small feat with these two regimes). Project two is the writing of a 50-page paper detailing the history of computer education among Cypriot youth over the past 20 years. Project three is writing grants to obtain funding for peace-building activities from the EU under its COST program. Project four, and the one I am most looking forward to, is pleasure. Yiannis wants to make sure I enjoy myself while in Cyprus. Is he not the kind of boss of which dreams are made? So, my plate is full. I will keep you all up-to-date on the progress I make in each area (late in the afternoon I received word of an additional project regarding another EU grant). Here we go. Wish me luck.

Contact information

I now have local contact information. Please mail all post to:

Larry Fergeson
Cyprus Neuroscience & Technology Institute
Technology for Peace
5 Promitheos Str. Office 3
1065 Lefkosia, Cyprus

larry@tech4peace.org

dial this number from the U.S. to reach my mobile

011-357-96-58-60-21

Nicosia and the hunt for housing

Nicosia (Lefkosia in Greek) is the capital city of the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus. As many of you know the TRNC (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus) is the Northern territory of the island, which is only recognized by Turkey. No other country admits to the TRNC’s existence. There is a relative lack of crass commercialism, not to be confused with commerce, as compared to the touristy coastal cities. It is a gritty metro area among the surviving Gothic and Ottoman domestic and religious architecture of a medieval town. There are Venetian walls built in 1567 that encompass the old city. There is also “The Green Line” or the “ceasefire line” that divides the city and the country from the Greek Cypriots in the South and the Turkish Cypriots in the North. Nicosia is the last hermetically divided city, now that arrangements of one sort or another have been reached in Berlin, Jerusalem, and Beirut (I got some flack from current event buffs regarding this statement in my last post, but for sake of argument we will go with my interpretation unless sufficient proof can be offered up). In the 3-mile swath cut through the city is the United Nations (UN) peacekeeping forces who have been here since the war in 1974 to keep these two ethnic groups from killing each other (literally). I live a tiny upstairs room (with two verandas) of a sprawling mansion with an elderly Greek Cypriot couple and their Bulgarian maid less than 100 yards from this line and find myself drifting toward it peering through the barbed wire, barrels, mattresses, and debris constructed as a barrier to any who dare enter and risk being shot or imprisoned. It is a constant reminder of the conflict with its separation and division. It is an appropriate physical representation of the inner struggle and conflict I feel inside. Ironically, I feel complete and whole being there.

Playing Catch Up due to no Internet connection

London Calling

The journey to Aphrodite’s birthplace began with a cocktail of very little sleep, a discussion with my cab driver about the difficulties of quitting smoking and a message from my mom saying something about London being bombed and that all the flights were cancelled. The last issue was of particular interest because I was to arrive in the Queen’s hometown to catch my connection to Cyprus. The staff at the airport was particularly dismissive of any possible inconveniences. This was both a comfort and a concern. It turned out to be a blessing because while we were traveling, all the panicked video of the bombing played out and by the time we were able to see a television, much of the coverage had turned to the investigation and not the titillation. As it were, we were able to pass through London relatively unscathed, except for a threatened 2-hour wait on the runway that turned into less than 30 minutes. Little did we know this was a foreshadowing of events to come.


Strike One

As fate would have it, computer-seating technology separated a married couple in front of me and after a brief negotiation, places were exchanged and I was now seated next to Jane, a vivacious British woman flying to Cyprus to visit her husband who was stationed on the island. Cyprus is after all an ex-colony of the Brits and they still maintain sovereign territory (read military bases) on the island. This sequence of events would eventually result in a good twist of fate. Jane’s husband, Ian, who from this moment forward shall be referred to as “The Major” is a high ranking military official who was being honored for his bravery in Iraq. The brass was throwing a dinner in his honor that Jane was very excited about attending.
Her hopes as well as the other passengers were dashed when upon our approach to Cyprus the plane suddenly began to gain altitude. The pilot informed us that airport workers had just called a strike and we were being diverted to Athens. A stunned silence of disbelief overcame all on the plane except for the one child who had constantly reminded us all of his presence through his vocal prowess. Murmurs began to give voice to the strangeness of the situation. Theories made their way around the plane more quickly than free cocktails. Were there more terrorist attacks? We were after all on a British Airways vessel headed toward a former British colony. We all thought it strange, but decided to remain level headed and not panic. I mean this is Europe after all and workers' calling a strike wasn’t the most unbelievable of stories. Whatever the reason, we were headed to Athens.


The Five-Star Diversion

After a four-hour wait on the runway at Athens airport, British Airways officials decided to ease our rising tempers with an overnight rest at Sofitel; a five-star hotel located conveniently across from the Athens airport. It was a great public relations coup. The hotel was very posh and visions of massages and hot tub soaking danced in all of our heads. The airlines also provided meals and drinks and so the public relations theory of keeping people fat, dumb and happy was invoked and honestly, was quite effective. During this time of boredom mixed with anxiety, passengers began forming friendships and strong bonds. Jane and I told stories of our lives and families and developed and genuine fondness for each other. I saw wedding photos of her friends and listened to her excitement of the much-anticipated reunion with The Major. I was excited for her. I was just finding out what it was like to be separated from the ones I love. Bittersweet I suppose.
I also conversed extensively with a young Greek Cypriot woman who worked in a lab funded by the international community with emphasis on maintaining a bi-communal (Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot) workforce. She seemed to mostly tolerate her Turkish co-workers, but just being exposed to “the other” opened up paths of communication and toleration that most Cypriots lack. Better communication is something I am interested in helping to facilitate between the two groups.
After awaking refreshed, we waited in the airport for several hours waiting on concrete word that we would be able to land in Cyprus. Word came around 11 a.m. and by noon, we were in the air and on our way. I’ve never seen an airline crew applauded and cheered as they entered the terminal, but by now we were a delirious bunch and happy to see any sign of progress. The flight was a beautiful tour of the Greek islands by air and a lovely view of the geography of the region. We finally landed in Cyprus after a memorable trip. I hugged Jane goodbye, met “The Major” and set off for Nicosia, the last remaining divided capital city in Europe. This is to be my home base and where I will be learning ways to wage peace.

Gratitude

A very special thanks to Harry Anastasiou, Yiannis Laouris and the Swett Foundation for making this possible.

Space for Peace

Welcome to my blog. The intention is to keep my friends and family up-to-date as to my experiences in Cyprus. Thank you for sharing and contributing to my life. Please post as often as you like and ask any questions that arise.